James McBeath 24/04/2012 | Posted in
The beauty of this system is that once you learn it, do it right, you’ll mix up your sizes/weights depending on where you’re fishing and what time of year it is. Higher volume and deeper water will require the longest and heaviest chain to slow you down. For that I recommend about a 22-24 inch piece of chain that will not hang lower than the keel of the boat when fully recessed onto the kayak. Make sure the gauge is about as wide as the drag chain “chutes” on the kayaks. If you still need some more weight/length, simply put a carabineer on the end of the chain and clip on a ball anchor (2-3lbs). This will certainly help turn the chain into an anchor, especially when you let as much line out as possible. Also, if you aren’t slowing down try making a couple back paddle strokes. This will slow the momentum of your boat and help the chain grip the bottom.
Always be careful to not drop your drag chain if the current is too swift for you to back paddle. Back paddling upstream is the easiest way to get your drag chain un-hung if for some reason it does hang (wrapping the chain in Gorilla Tape or shrink wrap helps quiet it and not get hung as often). If you can’t back paddle, then the chain should not be dropped. Of course, worst case scenario is that you cannot get back upstream to get unhung and you have to cut your line.