We have online video User Manuals
to explain the many aspects of kayak use and ownership.
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BUYING A JACKSON KAYAK
Refer to the kayak
of your interest and click on the product description link to help understand the benefits and performance of each kayak.
We have distributors all over the world. Click on the Find a Dealer
locator on the home page of the website and select a country to find a distributor or dealer in your area.
Contact your local dealer
to see what colors are available in stock.
We print limited numbers of catalogs each year. All of the information in the catalogs and much much more can be found on the Jackson Kayak website.
No, we do not sell kayaks direct from the factory. We have a great dealer
network that is ready to help explain size, color, and outfitting options.
All of our dealers carry a “demo” model specifically for this reason. Call your nearest dealer
to find out when they are having a “demo day” or if you can just swing by and pick the boat up to take out for a day. Some dealers will charge a “rental fee” for the day, but they may also deduct that amount from the purchase of a kayak so be sure to ask.
There are several options for paddles with a wide array of sizes and price points. The paddle that is best for you will depend on your size, and whether you are paddling a recreational or whitewater kayak. To determine which paddle is best suited for your paddling application please contact your local dealer
to confirm the best choice based on your paddling needs. You can also go to the LightningPaddleUSA.com
Refer to the online Video User Manuals
for instructions for specific kayaks. You can also check with your local dealer
for all the “how to’s” of your kayak adjustments.
Please refer to each of the product pages where you will find the dimensions of the cockpits in the Product Details table. You can contact your local dealer
to confirm which spray skirt may be best for you and your kayak.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
If your kayak was made with linear plastic and you would like to repair a gouge, you can use plastic welding rods to repair using a heat gun. Contact your local dealer
to request welding rods.
Your kayak can be cleaned using a mild soap and water. If possible, storing inside, vertically is best. However, if stored outside, do not place in direct sunlight. If stored horizontally, place foam on bottom to help protect the plastic from warping.
A roof rack, whether factory installed or an aftermarket product, greatly enhances both security and convenience when transporting your kayak. The simplest, but not necessarily the most secure solution is to place mini cell foam cradles between the boat and the roof, and tie the boat to the roof rack, if so equipped, or through the door openings of vehicles without a roof rack.
The first step is to put your kayak in direct sun for 4+ hours (try to put on a soft grassy area). Normally, the plastic will return to shape on its own. If it does not, try using weights or other heavy objects while leaving it in the sun to push the dent out. Almost boiling water can be used in absence of sunlight. Watch this
informative video on how to remove dents.
The first step is to complete the warranty form
found under the ‘4 Owners’ link on this website. Once submitted please allow 3 business days for a reply. It is very important to enter as much information as possible on the form. Pictures are very a very important part of the process. Take some clear close ups of the issue as well as some farther away. Put something like a pen or a penny in the picture so we can see the scale.
The serial number is on the right stern at the parting line.
FISHING SPECIFIC QUESTIONS
The Jackson fishing kayaks are designed to have transducers installed through the scupper holes. You’ll notice the underside openings for the scuppers are wide to fit any size transducer. Simply get a piece of high density foam and shape it to the shape of the scupper hole so that it fits snug, but yet is flush with the hull. Now, remove the foam and trace out the shape of your transducer. Then, cut the shape out with a knife or box cutters. Also, be sure to cut into the foam the proper depth of your transducer so that it now fits flush with the foam (and eventually the underside of the boat). Drill a hole through the center of the foam (or on one side) to run your transducer wire up to the top side deck of the boat. From there you will now install your unit via whatever method you’ve chosen (RAM, Scotty, Yak Attack etc) in whatever flat surface is available for mounting. We’ve left plenty of flat areas available for this, and keep in mind on the Cuda and Big Tuna you can mount to the center hatches if you prefer. Mount your unit and then find the best place for your batteries (on the Coosa it is in the day hatch, the Cud you may use the center hatch and on the Big Tuna you may have to externally secure them externally or run wire from the rear hatch if you choose to hang your battery box there). You can choose to glue the foam into the scupper hole (losing one scupper hole will not hurt) or you can shove it snuggly into the scupper hole so that it is easily removable.
Visit/call your local dealer
to find out if they carry JK accessories or go to our online store
to order directly from Jackson Kayak.
Most people use a 240cm paddle in the high position, but still everyone is different and some use 230cm and some use up to 260cm.
First off, every Jackson Fishing Kayak has the option to move the seat to a lower, more stable position – thus the name “Elite Hi/Lo Seat.” However, even with the seat in the higher position the kayaks are plenty stable because we knew the high position was something we were going to incorporate into the boat when designing the hull. So, we made the boat stable enough where most people can certainly enjoy the rewards of a higher, more comfortable seat once they feel comfortable enough to make the move. The kayaks are all made to stand and fish in as well, so you can imagine how stable they must be in order to accomplish that as well. About 80% of customers using the fishing kayaks stand and fish and about 90% use the seat exclusively in the high position.
The beauty of this system is that once you learn it, do it right, you’ll mix up your sizes/weights depending on where you’re fishing and what time of year it is. Higher volume and deeper water will require the longest and heaviest chain to slow you down. For that I recommend about a 22-24 inch piece of chain that will not hang lower than the keel of the boat when fully recessed onto the kayak. Make sure the gauge is about as wide as the drag chain “chutes” on the kayaks. If you still need some more weight/length, simply put a carabineer on the end of the chain and clip on a ball anchor (2-3lbs). This will certainly help turn the chain into an anchor, especially when you let as much line out as possible. Also, if you aren’t slowing down try making a couple back paddle strokes. This will slow the momentum of your boat and help the chain grip the bottom.
Always be careful to not drop your drag chain if the current is too swift for you to back paddle. Back paddling upstream is the easiest way to get your drag chain un-hung if for some reason it does hang (wrapping the chain in Gorilla Tape or shrink wrap helps quiet it and not get hung as often). If you can’t back paddle, then the chain should not be dropped. Of course, worst case scenario is that you cannot get back upstream to get unhung and you have to cut your line.
If you are fishing more than 50% of the time in rivers/creeks and smaller ponds, the nimble Coosa is the better choice. If you spend over 50% of your time on flat water (lakes, ocean, or flat water rivers), the fast, straight tracking Cuda may be a better option. If you need a kayak that can carry a large weight capacity, or an additional person, and that you’ll certainly be able to stand in with confidence, then Big Tuna is your boat.